Hervieux Dumez Champagne Tradition NV SPDESSERT great sparkling — and Francois

great sparkling — and Francois Chidaine is the man who proved Montlouis could do it every bit as well as Vouvray across the river

It's a low-intervention take that trades the usual buttery Napa Chardonnay for something leaner and more electric

ebullient wine packed full of creamy ripe fruits

This lands in the savory

with genuine structure to grow on

Hervieux Dumez Champagne Tradition NV SPDESSERT great sparkling — and FrancoisSacy is not a village that shows up on many Champagne labels. It's a Premier Cru on the western flank of the Montagne de Reims, and four generations of the Hervieux and Dumez families have been quietly making wine there without much fuss. Tradition is their calling card: Pinot Noir leads, with Meunier and Chardonnay filling out the rest, drawn from Premier Cru parcels across Sacy, Chamery, Ecueil and Villedommange. The Meunier gives it a juicy,